Last week we lit the first candle on our Advent wreath. I was brought up in a very strict Catholic household and these customs were very important to us. The first candle is traditionally the candle of expectation or hope, drawing attention to the anticipation of the coming of the the infant Jesus. This week's candle, the second of the Advent period, is the candle of peace, which represents the peace Christ brought into the world.




But here in Sweden, it takes on a whole new meaning as well. What could be more comforting in these dark days of winter up near the Arctic Circle than the ritual of lighting candles each week? The counting down the darkest time of the year (winter solstice) and the anticipation of the welcome return of the light.

Swedish jul (pronounced "yule") is a month-long national festival of lighted candles, savoury feasts and keeping up strong celebratory spirits. We need this to cope with the darkness. But it's not all doom and darkness; it is in fact often a very beautiful time. Tears have come to my eyes as I've seen scenes of magical Christmas-card loveliness: out in the countryside, the tiny wooden Hansel-and-Gretel cottages, frosted with glistening snow; in Stockholm, stately elegant old stone buildings clinging to the hillsides around the icy harbour. And everywhere, the inverted "V"'s of electric candles shining from windows.





It's also at this time of year that Christmas markets spring up around Sweden, signalling the beginning of Advent. This centuries-old tradition reaches back to a time when regular seasonal markets took place throughout the year. Christmas markets were simply an extension of that and provided a welcome event during the cold-weather months. They were joyful occasions for weary villagers and added a bit of light and fun to the long winter nights.

The first markets were little more than winter markets that lasted a couple of days. Instead of the cosy stands that line market alleys of the bigger markets today, the traders in some towns merely laid their goods out in the streets. They tended to specialises on local delicacies and traditional products. Today, in smaller communities, they serve much the same function that they have for centuries — as a festive meeting place for locals as well as a market for homemade Christmas ornaments and decorations. - from nutcrackers, wooden figurines, straw stars, hearts, goats and pigs, to biscuit tins, glass balls, toys, and spices.




So with that in mind, we set off to visit Stjärnholms Slott, the manor house just up the road, which was hosting something they called Julmys på Julibacken. I have to say that mys (pronounced a bit like a cross between "muse" and "moose") is a lovely Swedish word. There is no single English word which covers it adequately, but it means a time of cosy relaxation.

As you can see it was a cold and somewhat bleak day, with most of the recent snows having melted away. But it was so still and crisp that everything reflected in the little pond in the centre of the estate. The main manor house is used as a conference centre these days, but the little Christmas market was spread out over several of the outbuildings. While walking up to the first house, I spotted a very cute little cat door.




Isn't that charming. It is a tiny opening through the foundations and into the cellar area. The sign says that Kalle (a diminutive form of the name of Karl) the cat lives there. Remembering my cat door back in Adelaide, I wondered how many other of Kalle's friends also used this mode of entry to escape the chill.

We wandered through the cottages, looking at the goods for sale. My favourite was a little story book cottage called Julibacken. I tried to talk L-G into photoshopping some snow on the scene so it might look like the picture on their website, but he refused.




We lingered by the door watching the tiny birds feed at a conveniently placed bird feeder. They flitted to and fro, chirping and happily nibbling on the seeds left out for them. But it was bitterly cold, so we went inside to look at the beautifully presented array of Christmas goodies.




There were some lovely goods here - hand crafted decorations, beautiful wrought iron candle holders, little wooden bird houses, pretty paper serviettes with Christmas themes, wreaths, garlands, candles and a small but choice selection of teas, jams, mustards and sweets.




I always make up a basket for my lovely sister-in-law, including tea, traditional sweets and some of my home made biscuits (this year I'm thinking of ginger snaps, saffron biscotti, hazelnut crisps and Florentines - provided I can locate all of the ingredients. Hmmm, glacé cherries???). So today, I found some interesting tea in a pretty container and a cone of saffron sweets to include. I'll have to hide those, or L-G will scoff the lot.




I also bought one of these little birds to put on my Christmas tree. It's a bullfinch - they have very striking plumage and are quite common visitors to our garden at this time of the year. I was really taken with this little bird and he'll brighten up the tree, peeping out from the foliage. And I simply couldn't resist buying the tiniest straw pig I've ever seen. It oinked at me, so what could I do?




Outside, it was still cold, but despite the stark landscape, it was still and beautifully reflected in the pond. This pond had a pretty little garden pavilion in the centre. In Swedish, it is called a lusthus. I can tell you that when I first heard the word and did a literal translation into English in my mind ... let me see ... "lust house", it conjured up a very different image, I can tell you. We both thought that this would look pretty in the spring and summer, so we will be sure to return and walk around some more.





There were paths leading off through a sculpture park, through fields and woods. Some of the trees even looked like they were watching us. Very spooky....




That car looks as though it's been there a while.. LOL!

All very inviting and waiting to be explored on a warmer day.




It's very much a working farm and there are extensive stables attached with many horses, some of whom were being taken through their paces by those in the riding school. I could have lingered and wandered a little more, but Lambi was most insistent that we go home to the warm, cosy apartment and give her some food. Why does she always act like she's starving?

We have a busy week coming up. Today, I'm making marzipan filled saffron buns, using L-G's fabulous technique. Tomorrow it's Tomtenatten, so we'll be in Nyköping, picking up a few bits and pieces and hopefully looking at the market down by the harbour. That depends on the weather as I believe snow-blended rain is forecast.

Then Wednesday it's L-G's birthday (yay!). I must make his favourite frozen cheesecake before then. On Thursday we are off to the city of Eskilstuna (about 100kms away) as they found something dodgy on my latest mammogram, so the specialist at the main county hospital wants to probe a bit further. I'm trying not to think about it. Then Friday, it's time to bake my lussekatter (let's hope we don't have a repeat of last year's mixer disaster) and then Saturday it's Lucia - the Swedish Festival of Light and when Christmas really begins....