While it is a gloriously sunny April day, the early afternoon air remains stubbornly cool. Even so, I note that there are many customers seated in the charming walled courtyard garden of Blå Porten Café. I hesitate momentarily at the gate, scanning the crowd to see if Chrissie has arrived and contemplating whether I should brave an outside table or head straight inside where I know it will be warm and cosy. After long months of cold weather and short hours of daylight, it is time to catch as much of the sun as I can, so I sit at a large table in the centre of the garden, turn my face towards the golden rays like a sunflower and savour the tantalising aromas as people emerge from the café, bearing trays piled high with plates of newly baked pastries and enormous cups of steaming, freshly brewed coffee. There is a gentle tap on my shoulder and I turn to see my friends have arrived for our afternoon fika.

There are several words in Swedish that have no single, easy, direct translation into English and the noun fika is one of them. While the dictionary definition dryly states that to ta en fika means “to have some coffee (tea) or a coffee break”, it barely scratches the surface of the fika institution. John, one of my friends from Melbourne who has been in Stockholm for over twenty years declared early in our friendship that “The word fika is proof, if proof were needed, that Sweden is the most civilised country in the world.” And I have to agree that this cultural institution is an essential and integral part of living in Sweden.




I was no stranger to the café culture, having been a regular at several of the establishments that sprang up over the years near my Rose Park home. Whether it was a Saturday morning brunch under the vines at Three Benches, a lunchtime bite in the sunshine at The Black Olive, a quick mid-shopping break on Friday night at the Central Market or a late night post-theatre snack at Spats, I was a lover of the casual ambience of sipping a latte alfresco-style. I simply never expected to find a similar culture when I left sunny Adelaide bound for the frozen north of the earth.

It is common knowledge in Sweden that God made man on the sixth day and on the seventh the Swedes created fika. While it does not have the elaborate intricacies of a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, the sacred act ‘to fika’ is a daily ritual in the lives of Swedes and as rich as the industrial strength brewed coffee they like to consume in breathtaking quantities. Once inducted into the fika culture upon arriving in Sweden, expats readily adopt it as the most useful Swenglish phrase and we ask all our friends to fika with gay abandon.




One of the most common mistakes made when one is first invited to share a caffeine-charged cup is the belief that this is all there is to a fika. We quickly learn that the fika is both an art form and a social event for Swedes and something taken very seriously indeed. Sweden has not succumbed to the hurried paper-cup-take-away-coffee-service and they believe that the fika experience should be as relaxed and laid-back as the chosen meeting place. Fika is all about taking a break from life’s daily grind and relaxing in the company in others. While back in Adelaide we might head down to the pub to socialise and unwind, in Stockholm we will get together for coffee.

And coffee is the favoured beverage for the occasion. With so many fikas held each day amongst the nine million inhabitants, it’s no surprise to learn that the Swedes rank as the world's second highest per capita coffee consumers (losing out on first spot to neighbouring Finland). These days, they average three to five cups each per day and their taste for the so-called grain of gold dates back to the 17th century. At a time when restrictions on alcohol became widespread in the country, coffee became the national beverage.

However, coffee fell foul of King Gustav III (1746-1792) who denounced the drink as a poison, though in a rather ironic twist of fate, he went on to prove its benefits to the world. Upon passing a death sentence, the king ordered a convicted murderer to drink coffee every day until he died. The story goes that the guilty party not only thrived in prison, but went on to live until well into his eighties, while King Gustav himself was murdered many years before the prisoner’s demise. Absolved of any poisoning powers, coffee houses then began to appear throughout Europe and in Stockholm they still enjoy a roaring trade today.




The Unofficial Fika Guide

The first rule of fika, is that there can never be too many in a day. A Swedish friend smilingly tells me “We have fika before we start work, fika in mid-morning, then again after lunch and after dinner. It’s always a good time for fika.”

You can be alone, have an intimate twosome or a huge fika crowd and anything goes on the drinks menu, from a flat black to a luscious affogato with whipped cream and a dusting of chocolate. The perfect fika is always accompanied by something sweet and freshly baked.

Do also remember that if the clouds break momentarily, you are obliged to take your fika outside into the sun no matter the temperature. For in Sweden, summer is more of an attitude than a season and with the long, dark months of winter weather, Swedes relish every minute of the light-filled spring and summer months. Another piece of cautionary advice – one never drinks soft drink at a fika, although tea and especially something exotic like Kashmiri Chai Tea is gaining acceptance.




Range of fikas

The Traditional Fika is usually done in pairs with a close friend or colleague and is ideal for a quick 30 to 60 minute round-up of gossip. One arranges it the same day by email or SMS.
Menu: Regular coffee or latte with a biscuit to share.

The Extended Fika allows one a little more time to discuss anything topics ranging from the latest bargain buys, holidays, hairstyles, golf handicaps, cars and computers.
Menu: Extra large coffee or latte with the offer of a free påtår (refill) highly recommended.

The Sunday Fika is held for a couple of hours on the morning after the night before, but never before midday. The general topic of conversation is who has the worst hangover.
Menu: Double espresso and greasy brunches all round.

The Stylish Fika is strictly for when you want to impress your new love or an important business associate. Go to the exclusive Grand Hotel for a refined fika with your coffee served in a fine bone china cup rather than in a glass.
Menu: However far your purse-strings will stretch.

The Emergency Fika is an impromptu, girls-only event that lasts from a few minutes to several hours. Discussing the opposite sex is the only topic of conversation allowed.
Menu: Large portions of chocolate cake each, coffee optional.

Civilisation in a cup!