Leaving behind the madness of Sandhamn, we set a course for the bare rocks and scattered skerries that characterise the outer archipelago. After these scattered rocks lies Finland and Estonia. Most of this lay under water as late as 2,000 years ago, having been pressed down by thick layers of ice during the last Ice Age that retreated from Scandinavia 10,000 years ago. The islands started peeping up from the water’s surface about a thousand years ago and are still rising at the rate of 40-50cm a year. As a contrast to the waters around the west of Nämdö, today we are dodging underwater shoals and zigzagging in shallow waters varying in depth between 10m and 3 m.

We are curious about Horssten, a small island about 7NM east of Sandhamn, right on the outer edge. One needs good, stable weather to travel there, as the islands here are low lying and they do not provide any sort of wind shelter, plus the bottom is very rocky so it can be difficult to get the anchor to grip. The forecast is for mild winds (which won’t please the competitors in the Gotland Runt) so we decide to go for it. On the way there, we pass the very pretty island of Grönskär.



The 26m high lighthouse, called the Queen of the Baltic because of her beauty was built from granite and sandstone in 1770, replacing the wooden cairn that had been used for several hundred years previously. The houses you can see were for the three families that took care of the lighthouse. Because of the increased speed of modern shipping, it was decided in 1961 to construct another lighthouse (Revengegrundet) in a position south-west of here and this one was closed down. However, in the 1990s it was completely renovated and re-lit again in 2000. We would love to stay and look around, but there is no safe place to moor Fiona for the night, so we plan to visit there if we get a chance at a later date.

In the early evening we arrived at Horssten, a rocky outcrop with very shallow surroundings and we found it a challenge to find somewhere to anchor. In the end, after looking at our electronic chart we found a tiny bay on the south side of the island.



It is hard to believe that from the Middle Ages until the nineteenth century that this was an important fishing harbour, with a thriving community and even a chapel and cemetery. Most of this was destroyed by the invading Russians in 1719. A few small dwellings were rebuilt around the north of the island, though these days they are only used as summer dwellings and there was nobody there today when we visited.



The island itself is fairly typical for the region, being made up of granite bedrock, interspersed with marshy areas where plants seem to thrive, especially berries and juniper bushes. The wildflowers are also at their best and in this small patch of ground I counted at least six different varieties tucked in between the rocks and exposed to the elements.



To the west of this little settlement, we sat on some driftwood in our own little version of an exclusive outdoor café and I unpacked a small picnic fika. You can see that at least one member of the family is somewhat desperate to begin eating!



Enjoying our coffee and sandwiches, we had a wonderful view across the fairway towards the nearby island group of Björkskär and we discussed sailing the few nautical miles there and taking a look around. We had passed through them a couple of years ago on our way to Lilla Nassa, but it was late and we had no time to stop at the time. In the meantime we enjoyed this beautiful, isolated bay and watched the swans gliding around the lagoon – what a perfect view.



We walked back across the island towards the boat. If you look in the background of the photo you can see the horizon full of sails. This is practice day for the big race tomorrow, so the boats are out near the start checking things out. I think I’d rather be here.



The wind had picked up while we were away and we needed to move the boat fairly quickly while we could as there is precious little maneuvering room in this bay for a 36 foot boat. I quickly brought in the washing, strapped down the birds and we upped the anchor and set off for Björkskär, passing the rather cute Horssten lighthouse on the southwest edge of the island.



I think that it resembles one of those funny old-fashioned bathing sheds from the Victorian era. And wouldn’t you know it, as soon as we came out of the bay the wind DIED completely and we ended up motoring the 4 NM to our next stop of island hopping. Murphy’s law strikes again. Still, the sun is shining, it’s warm and frankly life doesn’t get much better than this.